On the button, off the cuff
When it comes to finding the right shirt, the style of the placket (the fabric where the buttons meet the buttonholes) matters. A standard placket shirt — Noguchi suggests 7 Diamond’s Saga Short Sleeve Shirt — has a strip of fabric down the center of the shirt. This is the most common button-down.
The French placket, like Banana Republic’s Slim-Fit Hi-Dri Dress Shirt, is where the fold is underneath the front of the shirt. It’s a bit more formal than the standard placket and is often worn with a jacket or tucked in.
Where the buttons fall on a shirt also matter if you’re going to wear a shirt untucked. If you’re trying to walk the line between casual and formal, Noguchi recommends Johnnie-O’s Hangin’ Out collection, which features a unique “Tweener” button. “It’s an additional button between the second and third button on a shirt. It’s perfect for wearing it untucked,” Noguchi says. “The second button is too buttoned up. The third shows too much.”
Another clue for how to wear a shirt can be found at the end of the sleeve.
- The most formal cuff is the French Cuff, where the sleeve is folded back on itself and should be worn with cufflinks.
- Barrel cuffs (more rectangular in shape) or rounded cuffs are more casual.
Cuffs can also provide a guide for how to wear your shirt. “A shirt that’s meant to be worn untucked will be right on the same line as a sleeve cuff,” Noguchi says.
Patrick Kenger, a personal stylist in Scottsdale, Arizona, suggests if you’re going to wear a shirt untucked, it’s important to lean in to the casual style. “You should never button the cuffs on an untucked shirt,” says Stenger. “You’ll look like you forgot to tuck it in. Keep those sleeves rolled up two to three cuff lengths.”
Best button-down shirts
The right button-down for you to wear untucked comes down to how it fits. “Don’t wear anything too relaxed or fitted untucked,” Noguchi says. “You want to keep your shape. A super skinny skinny fit might give you a weird bulk. And with relaxed shirts, you don’t want to poncho it.” Here are some highly-rated button-downs in various styles and at various price points to give you an idea of your many options and how to make the most of them.
Everlane’s The Air Oxford Short-Sleeve Shirt (limited availability)
Looking for something that works in the summer? This short-sleeve shirt is made from light-weight cotton. It’s casual thanks to a button-down collar, without being too dressed down.
UNTUCKit’s Wrinkle-Free Performance Short Sleeve
This button-down shirt has a bit of stretch from spandex and is designed to be worn untucked. It’s meant to be washed at home and has slim, tall and relaxed options that fit a variety of different body shapes.
Peter Millar’s Capri Slim-Fit Button-Down Collar Checked Cotton Shirt
“A slim-fit, untucked shirt made of high quality material,” Kenger says about this option from Peter Millar. “Try the slim fit first and work up from there. You’ll likely surprise yourself with what you can fit in.”
Hill City’s Hybrid Denim Shirt
The look of a jean shirt without being boxy. The cotton-polyester blend gives this shirt lightness and the oversized pocket is sturdy enough to hold a few pens.
W.R.K’s Dot Performance Dress Shirt
“It’s a professional look with the comfort of a T-shirt,” says Noguchi about this WRK option. “The shorter hemline means they work both untucked and tucked.”
Buttercloth’s Firestone in Navy/Orange
Buttercloth’s name tells you why people like the shirt. The button-down, which counts Shark Tank’s Robert Herjavec as an investor, is soft and light. A subtle twist of the pattern on the cuff and spread collar help make this shirt more interesting, too.
Gap Stretch Poplin Shirt in Untucked Fit (limited availability)
Gap’s cotton shirt sports a bit of spandex for give and the curved hem makes sure it doesn’t hang too far down when untucked. A chest pocket breaks up the front and can hold a pair of glasses in a pinch.
Bonobos Brushed Button-Down Shirt
This cotton button-down shirt is a bit heavier — good for fall and spring — or if you work in an office where the air conditioner is always on blast (and if you’re in your office at all). This shirt could work jeans, too, both in casual work settings or out and about.
J. Crew Untucked Cotton Chambray Shirt
J.Crew’s take gives you the look of denim without the weight of denim. The chambray un-tucked shirt is made with organic cotton and has sleeves that were meant to be rolled up.
